本文主(zhu)要(yao)探討了色(se)紡(fang)紗(sha)(sha)的(de)生產技術(shu)難點，以及生產色(se)紡(fang)紗(sha)(sha)的(de)技術(shu)要(yao)點，包括原(yuan)棉(mian)染(ran)色(se)、混(hun)棉(mian)、紡(fang)紗(sha)(sha)工藝和控制(zhi)回料(liao)使用等。指出了我國色(se)紗(sha)(sha)紗(sha)(sha)生產與國際水(shui)平的(de)差距及今后的(de)努力方向。
色(se)紡紗廠家指出(chu)生產色(se)紡紗的技術(shu)難點及(ji)技術(shu)要點
由于色(se)紡紗(sha)用不(bu)(bu)同色(se)澤與不(bu)(bu)同性能纖維(wei)原(yuan)料互配混(hun)和紡紗(sha)，如何達(da)到混(hun)和均勻、色(se)澤鮮艷、色(se)牢(lao)度(du)好，且紗(sha)條粗(cu)細均勻、毛羽少、疵點少而小(xiao)的(de)要(yao)求(qiu)，技術上是(shi)有難度(du)的(de)。
1 主要技術(shu)難(nan)點
a)色紡紗批(pi)量小、品種多、變化大(混(hun)(hun)比系根據(ju)后加(jia)工的(de)要(yao)求(qiu)而變化)，往往一個車間要(yao)同時生(sheng)產(chan)不同混(hun)(hun)配(pei)比的(de)多種色紡紗，翻(fan)改頻繁(fan)，如稍(shao)有疏忽，批(pi)號混(hun)(hun)雜，就會產(chan)生(sheng)大面積的(de)疵品，故對車間現場管(guan)理，尤其(qi)是分(fen)批(pi)、分(fen)色管(guan)理提出了(le)更高的(de)要(yao)求(qiu)；
b)同一(yi)批號(hao)色紡紗(即同一(yi)混配比)在有(you)色原(yuan)料換批后要保持(chi)色澤色光一(yi)致(zhi)，技術(shu)難度較大(da)。
2 主要技術要點
根據浙江省許多(duo)棉紡(fang)廠(chang)多(duo)年生產實踐，要保持(chi)色紡(fang)紗的(de)質量穩定，必須從原料選配開(kai)始精心(xin)設計，優化工藝、嚴(yan)細管理、道(dao)道(dao)把關(guan)。
2．1 搞好原棉染色
根據近幾年生產實(shi)踐，目(mu)前(qian)純棉(mian)色(se)(se)(se)(se)紡(fang)紗(sha)的(de)線密度(du)一(yi)般在(zai)14．6tex(40Ne)以(yi)下，多數為16．1tex(30Ne)左右(you)，紡(fang)紗(sha)線密度(du)適(shi)(shi)(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)。為使(shi)染色(se)(se)(se)(se)后(hou)(hou)的(de)原(yuan)棉(mian)仍保(bao)持(chi)一(yi)定彈性(xing)，并使(shi)強力損失(shi)減小，故選用(yong)(yong)原(yuan)棉(mian)纖度(du)要(yao)(yao)適(shi)(shi)(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)(5400～5600Nm)，成熟度(du)要(yao)(yao)好(1．6—1．8)，含(han)雜率要(yao)(yao)少。纖度(du)細的(de)棉(mian)花染色(se)(se)(se)(se)后(hou)(hou)在(zai)紡(fang)紗(sha)加(jia)工中(zhong)(zhong)易斷裂與產生棉(mian)結(jie)。同時在(zai)染料(liao)選配上既要(yao)(yao)提高染色(se)(se)(se)(se)牢(lao)度(du)又要(yao)(yao)使(shi)染色(se)(se)(se)(se)后(hou)(hou)纖維保(bao)持(chi)一(yi)定的(de)彈性(xing)與摩擦系數，故在(zai)原(yuan)棉(mian)染色(se)(se)(se)(se)中(zhong)(zhong)要(yao)(yao)加(jia)入適(shi)(shi)(shi)量的(de)助劑與油劑。目(mu)前(qian)原(yuan)棉(mian)染色(se)(se)(se)(se)有兩種(zhong)(zhong)方(fang)法：一(yi)種(zhong)(zhong)是末經(jing)處理(li)(li)原(yuan)棉(mian)先(xian)染色(se)(se)(se)(se)后(hou)(hou)再混和(he)，另一(yi)種(zhong)(zhong)是原(yuan)棉(mian)先(xian)經(jing)清、梳、精梳工藝處理(li)(li)后(hou)(hou)，采用(yong)(yong)棉(mian)條(網)染色(se)(se)(se)(se)，再在(zai)清梳工序中(zhong)(zhong)混和(he)。后(hou)(hou)者原(yuan)棉(mian)通過(guo)二(er)次清梳工序處理(li)(li)易增加(jia)短(duan)絨，會影響成紗(sha)毛羽與棉(mian)結(jie)增加(jia)，故一(yi)般用(yong)(yong)于純棉(mian)色(se)(se)(se)(se)紡(fang)紗(sha)或半(ban)精梳色(se)(se)(se)(se)紡(fang)紗(sha)。如作精梳純棉(mian)彩色(se)(se)(se)(se)紗(sha)以(yi)采用(yong)(yong)第一(yi)種(zhong)(zhong)原(yuan)棉(mian)染色(se)(se)(se)(se)方(fang)法為好。
2．2 混(hun)棉方法要科(ke)學
色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)是用兩(liang)(liang)種(zhong)(zhong)以上(shang)(shang)(shang)有(you)色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)混(hun)(hun)(hun)合(he)紡紗(sha)(sha)，如何使一(yi)根(gen)紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)上(shang)(shang)(shang)段與(yu)(yu)段之(zhi)間色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)澤一(yi)致，取決于(yu)混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)均勻(yun)性(xing)。目前色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)方(fang)法有(you)開(kai)清棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)機上(shang)(shang)(shang)的(de)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)包(棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)堆(dui))混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)與(yu)(yu)并(bing)條(tiao)機上(shang)(shang)(shang)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)兩(liang)(liang)種(zhong)(zhong)。前者習(xi)慣(guan)稱“立(li)體(ti)混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”，使各(ge)種(zhong)(zhong)色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)澤纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)分布在(zai)紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)的(de)各(ge)個部位。后者稱“縱向混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”，把本白(bai)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)與(yu)(yu)有(you)色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)按一(yi)定混(hun)(hun)(hun)比搭(da)配制條(tiao)。前一(yi)種(zhong)(zhong)混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)立(li)體(ti)效應；后一(yi)種(zhong)(zhong)混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)各(ge)種(zhong)(zhong)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)混(hun)(hun)(hun)比控制較正確(que)，但混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)立(li)體(ti)效果較前者稍差。為(wei)了彌補兩(liang)(liang)者不足，紡中高檔純棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)時(shi)(shi)可(ke)采用兩(liang)(liang)種(zhong)(zhong)方(fang)法兼用。在(zai)紡化(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)纖(xian)色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)或(huo)(huo)彩色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)紗(sha)(sha)時(shi)(shi)由(you)于(yu)化(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)纖(xian)不含雜(za)質，各(ge)種(zhong)(zhong)化(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)纖(xian)可(ke)按比例在(zai)開(kai)清棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)工(gong)(gong)序用棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)包和棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)堆(dui)混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)方(fang)法進行。在(zai)紡T/C或(huo)(huo)C．V．C色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)時(shi)(shi)，當(dang)混(hun)(hun)(hun)用原(yuan)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)比例較高時(shi)(shi)，由(you)于(yu)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)花內含有(you)雜(za)質及短(duan)絨(rong)，而化(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)纖(xian)不含雜(za)質，故應采用清棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)不同工(gong)(gong)藝處理(li)單獨(du)成卷(juan)，在(zai)并(bing)條(tiao)工(gong)(gong)序中按比例混(hun)(hun)(hun)合(he)搭(da)配成條(tiao)。當(dang)T/C色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)以原(yuan)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為(wei)主(zhu)體(ti)，混(hun)(hun)(hun)用少量(liang)有(you)色(se)(se)(se)(se)(se)化(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)纖(xian)時(shi)(shi)，則可(ke)采用清棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)工(gong)(gong)序棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)包混(hun)(hun)(hun)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)方(fang)法，無需單獨(du)成卷(juan)與(yu)(yu)制條(tiao)。
2．3 優化紡(fang)紗工藝
由于(yu)(yu)色(se)(se)(se)紡(fang)(fang)(fang)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)尤其是(shi)以(yi)原棉(mian)(mian)(mian)為(wei)主體色(se)(se)(se)紡(fang)(fang)(fang)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)，因(yin)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)花通過(guo)染色(se)(se)(se)后(hou)纖維(wei)的(de)強力、彈性均有一(yi)定損(sun)失，故(gu)(gu)紡(fang)(fang)(fang)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)時(shi)(shi)各(ge)道工(gong)(gong)序(xu)要(yao)按(an)照(zhao)色(se)(se)(se)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)特性來設計(ji)。同時(shi)(shi)由于(yu)(yu)色(se)(se)(se)紡(fang)(fang)(fang)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)的(de)批量(liang)(liang)(liang)較小，品種變換頻繁，故(gu)(gu)清(qing)梳(shu)工(gong)(gong)序(xu)采(cai)(cai)用清(qing)梳(shu)聯(lian)工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)(yi)不完全適用。目前浙(zhe)江省生(sheng)產(chan)色(se)(se)(se)紡(fang)(fang)(fang)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)企(qi)業，多(duo)數采(cai)(cai)用清(qing)花與(yu)梳(shu)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)傳統紡(fang)(fang)(fang)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)(yi)。同時(shi)(shi)為(wei)便于(yu)(yu)小批量(liang)(liang)(liang)多(duo)品種生(sheng)產(chan)，清(qing)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)機械最好(hao)采(cai)(cai)用單(dan)頭(tou)成套的(de)組合排列。紡(fang)(fang)(fang)色(se)(se)(se)紡(fang)(fang)(fang)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)時(shi)(shi)梳(shu)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)、并(bing)條、粗紗(sha)(sha)(sha)、精梳(shu)工(gong)(gong)序(xu)宜采(cai)(cai)用輕定量(liang)(liang)(liang)、慢車速(su)、好(hao)轉移的(de)紡(fang)(fang)(fang)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)(yi)，一(yi)般(ban)掌(zhang)握定量(liang)(liang)(liang)，車速(su)比紡(fang)(fang)(fang)本(ben)色(se)(se)(se)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)時(shi)(shi)降低10%-15%，以(yi)減少棉(mian)(mian)(mian)結(jie)短絨產(chan)生(sheng)。同時(shi)(shi)為(wei)了控(kong)制(zhi)(zhi)成紗(sha)(sha)(sha)重(zhong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)CV%與(yu)重(zhong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)偏差，在(zai)并(bing)條工(gong)(gong)序(xu)對梳(shu)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)條子(zi)要(yao)先通過(guo)預并(bing)工(gong)(gong)藝(yi)(yi)改(gai)善條子(zi)結(jie)構(gou)，再按(an)一(yi)定混(hun)配比例進行(xing)1—2道混(hun)并(bing)，使未并(bing)的(de)重(zhong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)差異(yi)控(kong)制(zhi)(zhi)在(zai)較小的(de)范圍，以(yi)保證成紗(sha)(sha)(sha)重(zhong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)CV%與(yu)重(zhong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)偏差的(de)穩定(即(ji)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)線長片段重(zhong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)差異(yi)小)。在(zai)絡筒(tong)工(gong)(gong)序(xu)要(yao)適當降低絡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)速(su)度，控(kong)制(zhi)(zhi)毛(mao)羽增(zeng)長率。
2．4 要嚴格控制紡紗中回料的(de)使(shi)用
由于色(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)混用(yong)(yong)原(yuan)(yuan)料(liao)(liao)(liao)性(xing)能(neng)不同，混配比(bi)例不一，故紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)中(zhong)產生的(de)(de)回(hui)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(如回(hui)卷、回(hui)條、回(hui)花等)其性(xing)能(neng)差異較大(da)，為確保(bao)色(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)的(de)(de)質(zhi)量(liang)穩定與色(se)比(bi)正確，在(zai)一般情況下(xia)是不摻(chan)用(yong)(yong)紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)中(zhong)回(hui)料(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)(但紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)規格(ge)與混配比(bi)較長時期(qi)穩定可摻(chan)用(yong)(yong)部分回(hui)料(liao)(liao)(liao))。一般做法(fa)是：為減少(shao)原(yuan)(yuan)料(liao)(liao)(liao)浪費待回(hui)料(liao)(liao)(liao)積存(cun)到一定數量(liang)后采(cai)用(yong)(yong)一次性(xing)專紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)來(lai)消(xiao)(xiao)化回(hui)料(liao)(liao)(liao)。故紡色(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)的(de)(de)原(yuan)(yuan)料(liao)(liao)(liao)消(xiao)(xiao)耗(hao)定額(e)(e)要高于本(ben)白紗(sha)(sha)(sha)。一般紡純棉(mian)(mian)(mian)精梳色(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)，原(yuan)(yuan)棉(mian)(mian)(mian)消(xiao)(xiao)耗(hao)定額(e)(e)為1．37～1．4/t紗(sha)(sha)(sha)，紡普(pu)梳純棉(mian)(mian)(mian)色(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)或T/C、C．V．C色(se)紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)原(yuan)(yuan)料(liao)(liao)(liao)消(xiao)(xiao)耗(hao)定額(e)(e)在(zai)1．1/t紗(sha)(sha)(sha)左右，紡純化纖紗(sha)(sha)(sha)消(xiao)(xiao)耗(hao)定額(e)(e)也要超(chao)過1．02/t紗(sha)(sha)(sha)，其紡紗(sha)(sha)(sha)原(yuan)(yuan)料(liao)(liao)(liao)成本(ben)要高于常規紗(sha)(sha)(sha)
